Granada Podtours
Capital of Moorish Spain
Granada was the last of the Moorish kingdoms to remain independent. Famed for the Alhambra, the palace of the Nasrid dynasty, the city still displays its Moorish past in much of its architecture, as well as in the Arab walls and winding streets of the Albaicin.
This audio tour is divided into three distinct parts; the Alhambra, the Albaicin, both on their hills, and the city in the plain below.
The Alhambra needs no introduction from us! It vies with the Great Mosque of Cordoba for the title of the greatest work of Islamic culture in Spain - though it's much later than the mosque; it was started in the thirteenth century under the Nasrid kings of Granada. By that time the once-great Caliphate had split up into petty kingdoms (taifas), and Granada only managed to maintain its political independence by entering into a treaty with the Kings of Castile. But while Granada was politically and economically weak, it was a cultural capital second to none.
You'll also see Charles V's Palace, which he built right in the middle of the Alhambra. Most tourist guides loathe this palace - but it's a fascinating piece of Renaissance rationalism and geometry, with its circular two-storeyed courtyard set in a square palace. It's just a pity he knocked down some of the Nasrid buildings to put it here.
We visit the Albaicin, the twisting streets of the Moorish city, and see the patio of the Albaicin Mosque, which has been preserved even though a church was erected on the site of the mosque itself. You'll also see cisterns and minarets by the Albaicin churches, which survive from the time that there were mosques on these sites.
The city on the plain below was already built up by the Arabs - the mihrab niche of the old madrasa (university) is preserved in the Baroque palace opposite the cathedral - but achieved its current form in the Renaissance. After capturing Granada in 1492, Ferdinand and Isabel (and their successors) invested huge amounts in creating a modern city - with a stunning Renaissance cathedral on the site of the great Mosque, and a mausoleum for themselves and their heirs.
Podtour of Granada
Price: £5
Other Podtours in Southern Spain:
- Seville with a tour of the cathedral, Alcazar, Barrio Santa Cruz and other areas
- Cordoba - three faiths in one city; the mosque, Gothic churches, and synagogue
What else to see in Granada
- The Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo is a mini-Alhambra you can enjoy in blessed solitude. It's in a garden off the Plaza Santa Domingo, in the Realejo area of town. From the outside it's unprepossessing - but inside, it's a perfect Arab room, part of the Nasrid era garden palace of the Almanxarra.
- Climb up Sacromonte for marvellous views of Granada and the countryside around. The slopes heading up towards the abbey are honeycombed with cave houses - this has been a centre of Gypsy culture for centuries. For the best views walk up the hill in the cool of the early morning; the low sunlight brings the ridges and dips of the hillside to life, and you'll be back in Granada before the midday heat makes a siesta necessary.
- The Cartuja or Charterhouse is one of the most ama
zing - and quite possibly one of the most tasteless - works of the Andalusian baroque. It's in the fantastic Churrigueresque style; everything that can be ornamented is ornamented, everything that can be repeated is repeated, and pretty much everything that can be gilded gets that treatment too.
Visiting the Alhambra
The Alhambra is one of the world's top tourist destinations, with over seven thousand visitors a day. So getting to see it can take a little planning - particularly if you want to see it in a less crowded and more relaxed way.
- You can order tickets over the internet from La Caixa. However, I had problems making this work.
- If you are prepared to make your way to the Alhambra ticket offices by 730 in the morning, you're almost certain to get a ticket for the first timeslot for entry to the Nasrid palaces (the Arab work - Charles V's palace and the Generalife are open without restriction). You'll see them while there are still relatively few tourists there, and no big tour groups, and you can stay in the palaces till you're fed up. It's also possible to buy both morning and afternoon tickets and spend all day there - which is really worthwhile if you're into art or architecture.
- You might want to visit in the evening - there is rarely a queue and you won't need a reservation, but only the Nasrid Palace is open.
- The Bono Turistico is available from the Tourist Office and lets you into other sights such as the cathedral and Royal Chapel. However, you may not get the time slot you want for the Nasrid Palaces.